I climbed the rigging of the old Norwegian fishing boat to watch an orange
moon rising over the Albor%26aacute;n Sea. It was midnight in Andalucia, southern
Spain.
A motorboat chugged quietly into harbour and moored beside us; the mountains
of the Sierra Nevada rose black in the distance. In the morning, we would
sail in a south-westerly direction towards the coast of Morocco, to look for
dolphins.
I was on board the Toftevaag, a wooden ketch commissioned in 1910 for herring
fishing in the Northern Sea. Today, beautifully restored, varnished and
equipped as a research vessel with modern navigational and scientific
equipment, she belongs to Alnitak, which is a non-governmental agency (NGO).
Alnitak operates as cetacean research organisation run by Spanish marine
biologists Ana Ca%26ntilde;adas and Ric Sagarminaga van Buiten. They patrol the
coastal waters of Andalucia, monitoring the dolphins and whales that remain
in the area.
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